Argentina (IX.) - Iguazú, the big water

Originally it hadn’t been the plan to visit Iguazú - but then it seemed a pity to skip one of the biggest waterfalls in the world if we were already very roughly in the area. Very roughly meant a 24-hour bus ride from Salta - which we still considered reasonable enough.

Argentina too has its transport curios

Getting out from the bus in Puerto Iguazú was entering again a completely different world – after the cold and windy Patagonia and dry and warm north-west, this time it was very hot and humid, booming with lush green vegetation.

The Iguazú falls are divided between the Argentinean and Brazilian sides. The guidebooks say that on the Argentinean side you can feel them, and on the Brazilian contemplate them. Translated, on the Argentinean side (which has most of the falls) you get closer to the water, while on the Brazilian side you can see the big picture.

And translated even more, if you have time to see only one side, definitely go for the Argentinean.

Iguazú are not just one waterfall. It’s a system of (apparently) some 270 bigger and smaller falls flowing over a huge crack in the Iguazú river. On the Argentinean side, there are a number of trails and walkways, in varying length, to see the falls from the top…

... middle...

… as well as from the bottom.

You can also take a short boat ride on the Iguazú river (totally recommendable) which takes you directly under some of the smaller falls, and you get (thoroughly) wet.

It’s a very good idea to get to the falls as soon as possible, before the place gets crowded and very hot, which combined with the humidity isn’t great.

Right side Argentina, left side Brazil

The main platform on the Brazilian side. Check the size of the platform against the fall on the photo above.

It's all a national park, so in addition to the falls you also get to see also some animals - apart from the butterflies, most of them pretty much used to human presence (and the snacks that humans take with them). Especially the coatis, strange animals which could be funny - if they weren't everywhere hunting for your food, and didn't bite.

Unlike in Zambia though, on the Argentinean side they are at least equipped for the eventuality and have several medical points in case of a coati attack, or a heat-faint.

And how was it? Of course I had expected Iguazú to be amazing - but at the same time I was a little cautious. Seeing the Victoria falls had left a very deep impression on me (and not just because of the baboon that attacked me), and I was wondering if any second sight could equal that. 

And the fact is that, during the morning of the first day, I was just a tiny little bit disappointed. The Victoria falls had impressed me more. They have a more compact curtain of water, and you get close and you get wet, with the water roaring just next to you, and of which is very exhilarating. Here, the falls are more spread out and you see them from a bit of a distance, even on the Argentinean side. Secretly, I had thought the Victoria falls a winner.

That was until we got to the Garganta del Diablo in the afternoon.

The arrival was inconspicuous enough. You get there by a small train and then a 1km-long walkway above the water. All around you, you just see a wide calm river, with nothing whatsoever indicating there's a fall anywhere around.


And then you reach this huge hole in the riverbed...

... and see the Garganta del Diablo. And that's a sight which I just can't describe. I stared at it with my mouth open for a good while before I remembered to close it.

It's beyond impressive. The sheer quantity of water, the deafening sound of it, the dimensions of the whole thing... whoa.

In reality, photos can't even remotely show how incredibly impressive that natural show is. Video doesn't do it full justice either, but is at least a bit of an approximation.

We stayed there for about two hours, unable to leave, almost until the closure of the park. 

After a thing like this I understand that the Brazilian side had it difficult to compete the next day. Yes, viewing the falls from far was nice - but why the Brazilians built only one narrow walkway with hardly any viewing spaces to cram all the visitors, that I really don't understand.

The main viewing platform is directly above the river...

... which admittedly gives you pretty impressive view (if you manage to get there early. I shudder to think what this must be like at midday, elbowing your way through hundreds of sticky people. Eeek).

Fine, still it's great.

All the same, the Brazilian coatis seemed even more persistent than their Argentinean counterparts (and no medical points here). And, as a loo-going professional, I have to say that the Brazilian-side toilets are nowhere comparable to the Argentinean side. That, I think, settles the matter definitely in favour of Argentina.

And that was it! The last bus ride direction Buenos Aires, the last cherries, the last steak and ice-cream...

... and back to winter.

And how about the boots, you ask? They lasted all the way, my friends! The only casualty was a piece of the sole falling off somewhere around Campamento Italiano (and some slight leakages). 

More on Argentina (and Chile) here and here.